I’ve been coming to Forte dei Marmi for as long as I can remember. Some places become part of your rhythm — Forte is like that for me. It’s not flashy or overwhelming. It’s just where things fall into place: bikes instead of cars, beach days that turn into nights, and the comfort of returning to the same spots year after year.
Mornings Made of Tennis, Tramezzini, and Rituals
Most mornings start with tennis. Tennis Italia is basically our second home — long mornings under the sun with Matteo Marrai, who makes every drill feel like fun. Then, Caffè Soldi, a must for breakfast. The tramezzini there are addictive, and they serve these little pasticcini — mini pastries filled with rich chocolate, cream, pistachio and countless other flavours that I still crave when I’m away.
After breakfast, it is straight to Bagno Piero. Our tent is always in the same spot. That’s where time really slows down — jumping between the pool and the beach, reading under the umbrella, and playing paddle ball until the sun sets. On some evenings, they host dinners right there on the sand — nothing beats eating barefoot on the beach with the sound of the sea right next to you. Fun bonus, their restaurant is in my opinion the best among beach clubs, very simple but the quality is insane.

Ice Cream, Luna Parks, and Night Rides
Afternoons are for gelato (always Bella Mia, no debate) and sometimes a bike ride to Luna Park, just past the little canal. One time, we had ice cream before the roller coasters — not our brightest idea, but it’s one of those memories we still laugh about.
Forte by bike is half the experience — you can go anywhere. Whether it’s riding into the town center for dinner or heading out toward Lido di Camaiore (yes, including the hilly bridge), everything feels reachable and fun. No schedule, no real plan — just coasting from one memory to the next.
Where to Eat (Other Than at Home)
We tried a bit of everything over the years, but there are a few standouts. Bocconcino for pizza — simple, fast, and that thin New York style crust and Kooka for sushi. If you want something more refined, Il Merlo in Lido di Camaiore is a gem. We know Chef Angelo personally, and his cappelletti and uovo fritto are something else — light, delicate, but full of flavor. It’s one of those places where you linger at the table without realizing how much time has passed.
In Pietrasanta, just 20 minutes by car (or about 50 by bike if you’re feeling ambitious), there’s Sementis, a vegan restaurant I’d honestly put among the best I’ve tried. It’s small, humble, and everything on the menu feels like it was made with care, for more infos you can check the place out here: http://www.sementis.it.
Evenings That Don’t Want to End
Evenings in Forte are their own world. There’s Capannina, iconic and loud, perfect if you’re young and looking for chaos (in the best way). Twiga is more upscale — not everyone’s vibe, but always an experience. And if you’re lucky, you’ll catch one of the beach parties that pop up in different bagnos depending on the night — music, dancing, and everyone barefoot in the sand.
You don’t need much in Forte — a bike, a towel, and a good appetite. Somehow it never gets old.
